Fall Colors at Sipapu Natural Bridge

Sipapu Natural Bridge and fall colors.

Sipapu Natural Bridge at Natural Bridges National Monument in southeast Utah is now considered to be the sixth longest natural bridge in the world. It used to be listed as the fourth largest natural bridge, but a laser measurement in 2007 indicated that the span (the width of the opening) is 255 feet / 78 m, demoting it to sixth, after Rainbow Bridge (also in Utah) and four bridges in China.

A natural bridge is a relatively rare kind of arch, in that it was formed by running water wearing away at the side of the sandstone fin until finally it wore a hole for the stream to go through rather than around it.

No matter. It’s massive and awesome, sitting in the bottom of White Canyon. A strenuous but well laid out trail to the bottom has ever more impressive views along the way.

Cottonwood tree underneath Sipapu Bridge.

While down at the bottom you can hike downstream on a trail to Kachina Natural Bridge, and even on to the third bridge, Owachomo. Or you can walk upstream where there is no trail but it’s pretty easy meandering.

Oakbrush (Gambel Oak, Quercus gambelii) in fall colors, with a cottonwood sapling that is still green.
Sipapu Bridge, from the trail down from the rim.
Single-leaf ash (Fraxinus anomala) fall colors in White Canyon.

A surprising little tree in the canyons is Single-leaf ash. It’s in the same family as the familiar ash shade trees in cities and towns. I supposed the scientific name anomala is from the word anomaly, “something that deviates from what is standard, normal, or expected”. Yeah.

Fall at Sipapu Natural Bridge, from streamside.
Sipapu Bridge and stream.

The strenuous part of the hike, of course, is going back up to the parking lot.

© Copyright 2023 Stephen J. Krieg

Kachina Bridge, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

Kachina Natural Bridge, Touch Of Fall

Kachina Bridge, from southwest buttress.

Kachina Bridge, from above the southwest buttress. Just a few cottonwood colors starting.

Mid September, and time to pay another visit down in White Canyon to Kachina Bridge at Natural Bridges National Monument in southeast Utah.

Unseasonably warm, after some sweet autumn-like weather the week before. But it’s temporary. The sun continues its arc toward the south, the days grow shorter and shorter, the cooling nights longer.

At the bottom of the trail, 400 feet below the rim, I once again savor the massive stone colossus’ shade. A nice breeze formed by its opening, almost 200 feet wide. I drop my pack to let my sweaty shirt back do some evaporative cooling.

Reflection pool beside Kachina Bridge, White Canyon.

Reflection pool beside Kachina Bridge, White Canyon.

Underneath Kachina Natural Bridge

Walking underneath Kachina Bridge gives you a sense of just how small and temporary you are. About how long it took moving water to carve its way through the massive fin of sandstone until it could go through it rather than around.

White Canyon downstream from Kachina Natural Bridge.

Hiking downstream from Kachina Bridge, pools of water were still left from the last rain. The stream banks are a linear oasis between the solid rock canyon walls.

“Wrong Way” warning sign downstream from Kachina Bridge.

A sign along the stream bank attempts to guide hikers that the trail to Owachomo Bridge is not by bushwacking down White Canyon. Go back partway up toward the rim and look for the sign pointing toward Owachomo.

Somewhere in White Canyon.

Hiking in White Canyon can be a lesson in route finding. Sometimes a trail is marked and obvious. Other times it is not. But exploring the canyon affords many great views of the sandstone walls.

Hikers beneath Kachina Natural Bridge.

People in the photo gives a true sense of scale of the bridge.

Kachina Natural Bridge Ruin, Natural Bridges National Park, Utah.
Ruin at Kachina Natural Bridge. Note the handprints on the cliff wall and the ghostly pictographs painted inside the low adobe structure.

A short scramble up a steep sand bank allows you to see some Ancestral Puebloan ruins. Handprints painted on the cliff wall (pictographs) and the low adobe structure at its base, with ghostly images painted inside. This would have been made about 800 years ago. Notice how a later (how much later?) debris flow of muddy water occurred that covered over parts of the handprints.

Ghost-like pictographs on the adobe structure.
Petroglyphs on buttress of Kachina Natural Bridge.
Ancient inscriptions (petroglyphs) pecked into the sandstone on Kachina Natural Bridge buttress.

On the buttress of Kachina Bridge itself are petroglyphs, the term for figures pecked into the sandstone face. A vulture or maybe a condor, a twin bodied desert bighorn sheep. What else can you guess here? The Hopi can trace their clans, which even have societies within those clans, to the figures left behind at Natural Bridges. Their knowledge is that vast and detailed.

Thankfully, these inscriptions are far out of reach of visitors. The stream has continued its downcutting through the centuries. Or maybe the ancient ones built a ladder to get up there. Don’t laugh; they built and used ladders. The remains of one of them is still in the park. I won’t tell you where. I only share photos of ancient ruins that the Park Rangers are allowed to tell visitors about. As far as all of the other ones I have hiked to in the park, those are top secret as far as I’m concerned. I value and respect them, that I had the privilege to see them in person.

Kachina Natural Bridge approach, in summer.

Finally, autumn leaves turn color and fall to the ground. Days are much shorter already and winter is just around the corner.

Kachina Natural Bridge approach, November.
Single-leaf ash, fall colors.

Single-leaf ash (Fraxinus anomala) is a desert tree. Yes. A small tree, but beautiful during spring, summer and fall. It grows in wet nooks at Natural Bridges.

Single-Leaf Ash in summer. Note the opposite leafing pattern, same as in all ash trees. What a surprise to see a short member of the Fraxinus species in the desert. Most of us are used to ash trees being large beautiful shade trees in towns and cities.
Fall colors and reflection, framed by Kachina Natural Bridge.

© Copyright 2023 Stephen J. Krieg. Photos from 2015.

Southeast Utah Wildflowers – Part 1

Now that the summer heat has moved in, and while we’re waiting for the late summer monsoon thunderstorm season to begin, I’ve rounded up my favorite photos of wildflowers from the year thus far. We start here with the earliest springtime blooms, those joyous first confirmations that winter is finally over (except for the odd late spring snow storms).

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Newberry’s Twinpod – Physaria newberryi, flowers just beginning to open.

Newberry's Twinpod wildflower, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah.

Newberry’s Twinpod on the “beach” at Kachina Natural Bridge.

Newberry’s Twinpod is one of the earliest wildflowers here on Cedar Mesa in southeast Utah. In this photo the blossoms are just opening. The earliest green of spring, the first flush of bright yellow blossoms.

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Newberry’s Twinpod with seed pods.

Above is the plant with its seed pods, in early summer. Each one has twin “bladders” that are papery dry, and a beautiful violet color at first. Later they turn a light brown and fall to the ground around the stem.

Parry's Biscuitroot, Lomatium parryi, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah.

Parry’s Biscuitroot, Lomatium parryi

Parry’s Biscuitroot is another of the earliest wildflowers in canyon country. With its muted yellow flower head clusters, it’s easy to miss. But quite appreciated once you notice it, because spring is finally here even though all the other plant life is still brown and gray, except for the Pinyon pine and Utah juniper trees.

Newberry’s Twinpod - Physaria newberryi, and Carpet Phlox - Phlox hoodii

Newberry’s Twinpod (Physaria newberryi), and Carpet Phlox (Phlox hoodii).

Carpet Phlox, though not as common around Natural Bridges, are beautifully showy with their almost moss-like foliage and, of course, showy pure white petals and bright yellow centers.

Fremont’s Mahonia - Mahonia fremontii

Fremont’s Mahonia (Mahonia fremontii), Natural Bridges National Monument.

Fremont’s Mahonia is probably the earliest shrub to blossom around here, at 6,500 feet. The blossoms are sweetly aromatic, from a good distance downwind.  I like this photo because it also shows something interesting about the foliage. The leaves are blue-green with sharp little tips. They are evergreen, except that on many plants they turn purplish in the winter. Some plants don’t, at least not this past winter.

Common Paintbrush - Castilleja chromosa

Common Paintbrush – Castilleja chromosa, White Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah.

I wonder how this species feels about being called “common”? Many people know it as Indian Paintbrush, but apparently now its common name (ha!) has changed to one belonging to everybody. No comments about political correctness needed…. I like this photo because I paired it with the new green growth of another forb adjoining the Paintbrush cluster.

Mountain Pepperplant - Lepidium montanum

Mountain Pepperplant – Lepidium montanum, Natural Bridges.

Mountain Pepperplant wastes no time appearing amongst the otherwise bleak early springtime scene, either.

Colorado Bladderpod - Physaria rectipes at Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah.

Colorado Bladderpod – Physaria rectipes, Natural Bridges

Colorado Bladderpod gets onto the springtime scene with its radiating network of long flower stalks capped by its bright yellow four petaled blossoms. These blooms hung around for quite a while this past spring at Natural Bridges.

Pale Evening Primrose - Oenothera pallida, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah.

Pale Evening Primrose – Oenothera pallida, Natural Bridges.

And then there’s the showy Pale Evening Primrose, with its four huge white petals and a yellow center. These blossoms fully open by nightfall, because they are pollinated by nocturnal insects.

Cliffrose - Purshia mexicana - at Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah.

Cliffrose – Purshia mexicana, at Natural Bridges.

A little later in the spring, the sweetly aromatic off-white blossoms of Cliffrose (Purshia mexicana) appear profusely on these tall high desert evergreen shrubs.

Claretcup cactus - Echinocereus triglochidiatus

Claretcup cactus – Echinocereus triglochidiatus, Cedar Mesa.

By far the earliest cactus to blossom in the high desert is the Claretcup cactus, one of the hedgehog cacti. These guys form dense colonies, like cactus urban centers.

Thrifty Goldenweed - Haplopappus armeroides - southeast Utah wildflower.

Thrifty Goldenweed – Haplopappus armeroides

© Copyright 2016 / 2023 Stephen J. Krieg

Moonset: What Goes Up…

I returned to the lake the morning after the Full Moon. It was time for moonset, the moon setting over the Abajo Mountains near Monticello, Utah.

Moon setting over the Abajo (or Blue) Mountains, Utah.

And yes, I caught trout from the lake.

© 2023 Stephen J. Krieg

Of Full Moons Past

Last night was the Full Moon, but clouds prevented me from making a decent photograph.

So I went to my files and selected some favorite images of past Full Moons from Colorado and Utah.

Full moon rising over the Rocky Mountains in Colorado.
The nearly Full moon rising over the high peaks as seen from Trout Lake, Colorado.
Full Moon from Lizard Head Pass, Colorado. January 2018.
Moonrise over the La Sal Mountains, Utah. 2015.
Moonrise at Sunset, from Trout Lake, Colorado. December 2018.
The March “Worm Moon” rising above the Uncompahgre Plateau, Colorado.

© 2023 Stephen J. Krieg

Goodbye Monticello

Springtime scenery photo of Loyds Lake, in San Juan County, southeast Utah.

Loyds Lake, Monticello, Utah

As things have turned out, it was time for me to leave southeast Utah. It had been a wonderful three years, first living at Natural Bridges National Monument at the north end of Cedar Mesa, then a half year in a town, Monticello, Utah.

My time in Monticello started in this past fall, my favorite time of year. Warm days, crisp nights at 7,000 feet. A lot of trout fishing at Loyds Lake. It soon became my Walden Pond, now that I was officially retired.

Being free of a job, of somewhere to be each day, was liberation. At first. But as the winter wore on and the lake froze over, it was less and less fun. I needed something to do.

So now I work at Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado, a mere 60 miles east of Monticello. I help to raise money for the park, working for the Mesa Verde Museum Association, the nonprofit partner of the park. It provides structure for my life, even though I do have to be certain places on certain days at certain times. It’s a heck of a lot better than being fully “retired”.

Panorama photo of springtime green agricultural fields near Dove Creek, Colorado.

Springtime on the Great Sage Plain, Dove Creek, Colorado, between Monticello and Cortez.

© Copyright 2017 Stephen J. Krieg

See more of my photography at www.NaturalMoment.com

Abajo Peaks, Sunset Sunbeams

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Sunbeams over the Abajo Mountains, just east of Monticello.

Driving west from Colorado into Utah on highway 491, I was watching a small storm front approach from the west.

Snow showers swirling around the Abajo Mountains, which are often called “the Blues” by the locals in Monticello, Utah.

Almost sunset. The sun too high for colors, but it streamed through the shifting clouds in dazzling fashion.

I had to pull over to the side of the highway to get a shot. It’s what I do, after all.

Photo location: Highway 491, San Juan County, southeast Utah.

See more of my photography at www.NaturalMoment.com.

© Copyright 2017 Stephen J. Krieg | Stephen Krieg Photographics

Wingate Cliffs Sunset

Wingate Sandstone Cliffs at sunset, Indian Creek Recreation Area, San Juan County, Utah.

Wingate Sandstone Cliffs at sunset, Indian Creek

The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park: serenely lonely in the wintertime. A great time to visit.

The day after snowshoeing in the Manti-La Sal National Forest at 7,000 feet elevation I decided to switch gears and go down about 2,000 feet to the high desert. That’s the kind of variety one can enjoy in southeast Utah.

No winter boots or heavy parka needed down there, especially since there had been several days of sunlight to melt any icy patches in the shady areas.

It was another sunny day, and calm as well. So pleasant for the last day of January.

I headed for the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. From US 191 between Monticello and Moab, take Utah 211 down Indian Creek Canyon to the Noodles. I mean Needles.

I hiked the easy Slick Rock Trail in the park mostly for the exercise, then started the drive back up along Indian Creek. I had seen a total of four vehicles all afternoon. Besides the extremely pleasant hiking weather, the absence of crowds is why this is one of my favorite times of year to visit this spectacular area.

The walls of Indian Creek Canyon are dominated by the vertical burnt red cliffs consisting of Wingate Sandstone. World class rock climbing if that’s your thing. Me, I like to stare at them from down on the valley floor. Especially when the low light approaching sunset lights them up.

Indian Creek Canyon recreation area in winter, Utah Highway 211.

Utah highway 211 in Indian Creek Canyon. Snow on the north sides of the cliffs.

Photo location: San Juan County, southeast Utah.

See much more of my photography on my website: NaturalMoment.com.

© Copyright 2017 Stephen J. Krieg

Snowshoeing It

Snowshoeing in the Manti-La Sal National Forest near Monticello, Utah.

Snowshoes, sunlight and tree shadows.

Real winter finally came to southeast Utah this season. There had been a number of beautiful snows up until recently, but not much more than seeing the mountains brightened up again each time, with a couple inches down in town.

That changed late this month, with several back to back storms that as usual came from the west or southwest and kept on truckin’ into western Colorado.

Atlas snowshoes, ready to be put to use.

Atlas snowshoes, fresh out of the shipping carton from REI.

My trout fishing lake had finally frozen over, and snowed over the ice as well.

The problem with the dead of winter is how to exercise. Oh, the runners keep running out there. And the people who work out at gyms keep on the treadmills and the weight machines.

Gambel Oak stand in January snow, Manti-La Sal National Forest, near Monticello, Utah.

Gambel Oak shadows on a January afternoon at 7,000 feet.

But what is a mountain man to do when the snow is deep? walking to the Post Office and back each day doesn’t count for much. Though it’s better than nothing.

Snowshoes. Like trout fishing it had been many years, but perhaps another facet of my life was coming full circle.

Loyds Lake in January ice and snow cover, Monticello, Utah.

Overlooking frozen Loyd’s Lake in January.

I went to REI and there were a pair of modern snowshoes on sale for just $40. End of the season, you know.

They arrived last week and I’ve been out twice. I avoid the weekends when there are snowmobilers, cross country skiers, and other winter sport enthusiasts flying about. I prefer to be the only human breaking the silence of the woods, if possible. And it’s possible.

Snowshoeing on Manti-La Sal National Forest in San Juan County, Utah.

Snowshoeing near Loyd’s Lake, with the Abajo Mountains in the distance.

The advantage to snowshoeing is that you don’t need to have the skill of being on skinny skies like you do with cross country skiiing. Which I have done, and loved, but chose not to get back into at this time. With snowshoes, you can plod along even over deep unbroken snow. Rest when you want, even facing downhill or uphill. You may not get to enjoy the thrill of sliding along and whooshing back downgrade, but anybody can use snowshoes. There is something to be said for going slower.

Photo location: Manti-La Sal National Forest, near Monticello, southeast Utah.

See much more of my photography on my website at NaturalMoment.com.

© Copyright 2017 Stephen J. Krieg

Moki Dugway View, San Juan River Valley

Moki Dugway in winter, Cedar Mesa, San Juan County, Utah.

The Moki Dugway section of Utah-261 at the south end of Cedar Mesa.

Winter in the high desert canyon country of southeast Utah. It’s been a good one for the mountain snowpack; the Abajo Mountains are at 200% of normal as far as moisture content from this winter’s snow and rain, forecasting a lush green spring.

The Moki Dugway is an unpaved portion of Utah Highway 261 that connects the southern end of Cedar Mesa with US 163 between Bluff and Mexican Hat. The Dugway drops 1,100 feet in just three miles, making it a spectacular (some would say white knuckle) stretch of road.

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It’s a spectacular view from the southern edge of Cedar Mesa looking down onto the San Juan River valley, with Valley Of The Gods, Monument Valley, and several mountain ranges in the distance.

It’s also within the new Bears Ears National Monument declared on December 28, 2016.

See more of my photography on my website: http://www.naturalmoment.com.

© Copyright 2017 Stephen J. Krieg